- In a medium saucepan, whisk milk with sugar and cornstarch until smooth. No lumps, please.

- Heat gently, whisking often, until the mixture thickens into a custard-like base. Don’t rush this part—patience yields silk.

- Stir in pistachio flavoring or ground pistachios and a splash of vanilla. Add a tiny pinch of salt.

- Remove from heat and let cool a bit. It will continue to thicken as it sits. If you want extra gloss, stir in a pat of butter or a dollop of cream.

- Chill for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. The flavors marry when they get a chance to gossip in the fridge.